Fès, Meknès, Rif
Bissara
Morning fava bean soup
A handful of split fava beans, water, cumin, olive oil. Bissara sellers come out at first light, set down their cast-iron pot and serve in clay bowls. In Fès, people drink it crouched against a wall of the Attarine souk. In Casablanca, it wakes the Sbata workers before the factory.
Dawn · 6-11amAll year, busiest in winter
About 40 vendors listed on Sikook
All regions
Sfenj & msemen
Fried yeast rings, flaky flatbreads
Sfenj is fried on the spot in a basin of boiling oil. Msemen is folded four times on a hot stone until it turns flaky. These gestures have been handed down from man to man on the same street corners for forty years. At Bab Doukkala in Marrakech, one vendor has been making them since 1978.
Morning and eveningAll year · peak in Ramadan
About 55 vendors listed on Sikook
Marrakech (a rbatie version in Rabat too)
Tanjia marrakchia
Meat cooked in the hammam ashes
A terracotta urn, a piece of shoulder, smen, saffron threads, preserved lemon, cumin. It is sealed with tied paper and taken to the ferran hammam, the buried furnace of the public bath. It stays in the embers for twelve hours. You come back the next day at noon. Walking home with your tanjia is one of Morocco's oldest male rituals.
Order the day before · pick up at 2pmAll year · peak in wedding season, spring and summer
About 25 vendors listed on Sikook
Sbata, Océan Rabat, Safi, Larache, Essaouira, Al Hoceima, Nador, Dakhla
Sardines & port fish
Charcoal grills right by the boats
Morocco is the world's leading sardine exporter. In front of every port, rows of stalls grill on charcoal the fish the fishermen have just landed. In Safi at dawn, the auctions. In Sbata at noon, the fried fish. In Dakhla, octopus and sea urchin take the sardine's place.
Lunch and eveningAll year · sardines May to September
About 60 vendors listed on Sikook
Atlas · Imlil, Aroumd, Aït Bouguemez, Aït Bouli
Amazigh tafarnout
Berber bread from the ash oven
A disc of roughly kneaded dough, pressed against the inner wall of a hot ash oven and pulled out when the crust turns golden. Tafarnout is eaten dipped in the year's olive oil or in amlou. It is the daily bread of the Berber villages of the Atlas. A generation of women still keep its memory alive.
MorningAll year
About 20 vendors listed on Sikook
All regions
Chebakia & Ramadan pastries
Honey roses, soaked chebakia, honey briouats
Chebakia takes six hours. The sesame and saffron dough is rolled, cut, folded into a rose, fried and dipped in hot honey. In Fès, it goes with the iftar harira. In Marrakech, it is eaten dry with tea. Some cooks make fifteen kilos a night for thirty days.
Ramadan · pre-order from mid-JanuaryMarch and April peak · pre-orders in January
About 90 vendors listed on Sikook
Tafilalet · Rissani, Erfoud, Merzouga
Rissani medfouna
The Berber pizza buried in the sand
Medfouna is a double flatbread stuffed with minced beef, onion, almonds and raisins, baked buried in hot sand under a layer of embers. It comes from Rissani, the former capital of the Alaouite kingdom. It has fed caravans for a thousand years.
To order, 2h bakingAll year · peak during the Rissani festival
About 15 vendors listed on Sikook
All cities · Djemaa el-Fna, El Hedim Square Meknès, Habous Casa
Kefta & merguez skewers
Charcoal-grilled skewers right on the street
A wooden skewer soaked in water, five balls of spiced kefta pressed by hand, five minutes over the embers. The round bread is split and the kefta slipped inside with cumin, salt and homemade harissa. On El Hedim Square in Meknès at midnight, the whole city files past these braziers.
Evening · peak 8pm-2amAll year · peak at Eid al-Adha
About 50 vendors listed on Sikook
Djemaa el-Fna, Casa mahlabas, Fès souks
Street drinks
Pomegranate juice, mahlaba, Berber mint tea
In front of the juice stalls of Djemaa el-Fna, the pile of oranges stands a metre high. In the mahlabas of Derb Sultan in Casablanca, fermented leben milk is served in tin glasses. On the squares of the Rif, mint tea is poured from high up, golden foam on top, three pours for politeness.
Afternoon and eveningPomegranate Nov to Jan · prickly pear June to Sept · tea all year
About 45 vendors listed on Sikook
Marrakech · Djemaa el-Fna square
Khoudenjal / ras el-hanout tea
Galangal, cinnamon and chilli tea from Djemaa el-Fna
A dark, spicy brew of galangal and cinnamon, served boiling hot in tin glasses right on the square. Mustapha El Bahja was the first to set it up on Djemaa el-Fna in the 1960s. His cart is still there every evening. The recipe is a secret passed down to his sons.
Night · peak 9pm-1amAll year · peak in winter
About 5 vendors listed on Sikook
Tangier, Tétouan
Tangier kalinté
Chickpea flan with a Spanish heritage
Kalinté is a peppery chickpea-flour flan, baked in a wood oven in large round trays. It comes from Andalusian Cádiz, brought by Morisco refugees in the 16th century. In Tangier, it is eaten hot, between two slices of bread, with olive oil and cumin.
Morning and lunchAll year
About 10 vendors listed on Sikook
All cities · municipal markets
Kermous nsara & seasonal fruit
Prickly pears peeled with a knife
The prickly pear seller wears gloves, holds a knife and peels twenty fruits a minute. He sells them at two dirhams each, five for one dirham as the season winds down. Around him, regulars sit on the pavement and eat three in a row. It is the thirst-quenching fruit of the Moroccan summer.
Summer · June to SeptemberJune to September only
About 30 vendors listed on Sikook